Last spring, my uncle gave me an old Dell digital projector, which I've been using in my school library. I already have a school projector mounted to a smartboard for instructional use. I've used the Dell projector to project images onto the wall space, which I've then penciled and painted onto the wall. It's really livened up the otherwise bland teal wall space.
Unfortunately, the projctor seems to have kicked the bucket. When I turn the projector on, it tries to fire up the lamp, failed, and tries again three more times before quitting. I replaced the bulb with a new bulb my uncle gave me, but the problem persists.
Dell's policy on projectors is they replace them when under warranty, but offer no service or parts when out of warranty. They will also not provide service manuals or schematics. I guess they would just rather drop hundreds or dollars on a new device. There are independent businesses that repair Dell projectors, but that will probably end up running me $300 or more.
So with nothing to lose, I'm considering attempting a repair myself. I have repaired my PS3 motherboard from the YLOD, so I have some experience (although that was mostly about cleaning the board and reattaching loose chips). Ultimately, I see this as a opportunity to learn something new and maybe fix the projector in the process.
So I opened the projector, removed one of the circuit boards and visually inspected what I could for any obvious problems, and researched what I could online. I think the problem could be related to a bad capacitor or something else on the circuit board.
So here are my questions (finally).
1. I know that you can't test a capacitor with a multimeter while still attached to a circuit board, and I know some of the telltale visual signs of a bad capacitor. But short of seeing any of these obvious signs, is my only option to remove each capacitor with a soldering iron, test each capacitor, then re-solder the good ones back and replace the bad ones?
2. Some of the circuit boards are attached to each other (to to other components) with wires attached by screws (easy), pins (easy), and ribbons (easy). Many others are attached by connectors that aren't designed for easy detachment (I assume you would have to remove the individual wires from the connector). What is the most efficient way of disconnecting/reconnnecting these?
I have searched for similar issues. I found a Dell forum post with the exact same model projector (dell 2200MP) and the exact same problem, but no resolution.
http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/peripherals/f/317/t/18009284
The next best thing I found was a basic repair video on YouTube for a similar model. It's not the same issue as mine (their's was completely dead), but it clued me in that there is some kind of issue communicating with the lamp.
https://youtu.be/nyG1p7AH0kE
I don't think it's a total failure, because if you plug in the projector without the lamp installed, the led doesn't light up at all. When you plug in the projector with the lamp installed, the led lights up and blinks (which is normal). So the projector can definitely tell when the lamp is installed. As this is an issue with two different bulbs, I suspect the problem is either a component in the circuit board, or the wiring to the lamp.
I will post a few pictures, although I probably won't get a chance to open the projector back up until tomorrow. I already planned to take pictures, because without a service manual or schematics, I need to document exactly how I took it apart so that I can reassemble it correctly.
I'll post some of those tomorrow.
Anyway - I was thinking about trying a fix as new keys run over $300, and was considering the linked solution to build out the part of the board that broke off. Any of you experts have thoughts about this solution?
Bondic replacement plastic - ( New Window )
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the model number to see if people suffered similar failures, and what the resolution was for those who fixed them?
I have searched for similar issues. I found a Dell forum post with the exact same model projector (dell 2200MP) and the exact same problem, but no resolution.
http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/peripherals/f/317/t/18009284
The next best thing I found was a basic repair video on YouTube for a similar model. It's not the same issue as mine (their's was completely dead), but it clued me in that there is some kind of issue communicating with the lamp.
https://youtu.be/nyG1p7AH0kE
I don't think it's a total failure, because if you plug in the projector without the lamp installed, the led doesn't light up at all. When you plug in the projector with the lamp installed, the led lights up and blinks (which is normal). So the projector can definitely tell when the lamp is installed. As this is an issue with two different bulbs, I suspect the problem is either a component in the circuit board, or the wiring to the lamp.
I don't think there's any real 'communication' with the lamp - it does an open circuit check to make sure it hasn't burnt out or wasn't installed properly, but that's about it.
If I had to take a stab in the dark, I'd suspect the DLP chip is having problems. I know TI had some issues and lead to recalls that affected some Dell units, but I don't know if this one falls into that age range (seems a bit old for that).
Needless to say, if I had to try a blind repair, I think I'd try reflowing the board or the DLP chip. If you can get the board free, you can stick it in a moderate oven for a little while (be sure there are no plastic components, they'll melt). If there are plastics, you can use a hot hair dryer to run some hot air over the DLP chip and hopefully get it back up and running.
Anyway - I was thinking about trying a fix as new keys run over $300, and was considering the linked solution to build out the part of the board that broke off. Any of you experts have thoughts about this solution? Bondic replacement plastic - ( New Window )
It's OK if the board isn't completely secured *as long as* the button for the fob is in the right place. My uneducated guess would be that when you press the button, the loose connection on the circuit board prevents proper mechanical contact to close the switch.
I haven't used what you linked, but I've had a lot of success with little repairs using sugru.
http://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Self-Setting-Rubber-Black/dp/B00KX6LTYM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1441204558&sr=8-4&keywords=sugru&pebp=1441204563591&perid=1Z8BVA3SNH68K5SV8SQQ
And if you buy using BBI's Amazon affiliate link, he gets a portion of the proceeds!
This function is powered on the fob by an induction coil. I also think it is possible that the slipped board could cause the power system to fail as well.
Either way, it seems that the only chance I have of fixing the fob would be to fix the board. I check the Sugru stuff out too.
Thanks!
Another consideration would be trying to find a housing or broken FOB on eBay, and using the housing there as a replacement.