I'm servicing my Generac 14kw generator for the first time since home purchase last year and I did everything else but was unable to remove the old oil filter (orange can) by hand.
Do you have any recommendations as to what tools to use to get it out?
Thanks!
yes.
I really don't look forward to splashing motor oil everywhere though.
Quote:
If you have space around the filter for leverage, then you can use a long screwdriver and hammer and tap through the filter. Then you just unscrew the filter with the leverage provided by the skewered screwdriver.
I really don't look forward to splashing motor oil everywhere though.
Quote:
If you have space around the filter for leverage, then you can use a long screwdriver and hammer and tap through the filter. Then you just unscrew the filter with the leverage provided by the skewered screwdriver.
yes.
Las time I tried that the screwdriver tore through the canister shell without turning the top.
Hit an auto parts place and ask for recommendation - there are a number of different wrench types available. Just measure the diameter first. Good luck.
Or Diver's method, no matter what it'll be a little messy.
similar to this
To get it hot; looks like there's plenty of room for a strap wrench, use a pipe on the wrench for extra leverage.
Crazy as it sounds, a little penetrating oil around the thread circumference can also help break it loose. (I've used wide-jawed "channel lock" pliers to do the job, in the past).
If you don't have one, Harbor Freight sells a set of four for $14; the biggest one opens to 51/2" ...
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-tongue-and-groove-joint-pliers-set-43553.html
Screwdriver is LAST resort.
A lot of good advice here. Some is ok.
On a stuck filter, I have not had much success using the screw driver method. Then one day I was at a shop and seen a strap deal. It was made of leather and was a ring with 3 straps attached to the handle. Sorta like a basket, if you will. I dont know if they make them any more. They do make a simple rubber strap deal which works ok. And there are some serious looking strap deals that are tightened with a ratchet. Google "oil filter strap" and look at the images.
One poster is correct that they should be tightened at the factory by hand. How-the-fuck-ever, sometimes the engine paint aint quite dry yet and the 1st fool that has to take off that filter is fooked.
Quick cool story bro: I had quit smoking for about 5 months. It was time to change the filters on our 2 new 1996 Dodge pickups. Our backup pickups were my 1983 Chevy Silverado 6.2 Diesel and Cindy's 1978 Lil Red Truck. LOL, sorry that I sold the Chevy a short while later, daughter #2 wants her Mom's Lil Red AND her 1996 truck. My V10 motor has the filter to the front and straight up and down. Piece of cake. Next, I move to my wife's 360ci V8. Damn, its in the same location as my 50's Hemis. In the back with exhaust pipes in the way and downward at about a 20° angle. So, I know there will be oil coming out. Would not come off with the standard oil filter wrench. Resorted to the hammer and screwdriver. Nada. I ended up stripping away the sheet metal portion and had to use punches and then a small chisel (very carefully so as to not scar the mounting surface). Those exhaust pipes were in the way of the hammer blows. I had to hammer that sucker all the way around for one turn.
I started smoking again!
I told this story to the local Chrysler service manager and he had a laugh about it. Seems that it was a problem for a couple of years with wet paint, Dodge had a hard time keeping up with orders for the 2nd Gen of trucks.
OK, you have plenty of room to use a standard oil wrench. A poster said to measure your filter or bring the new filter with you when buying one. Most auto parts places will have these in stock. Put the wrench as close as you can to the engine. Less chance of collapsing the filter because there is the sturdy mounting plate at the top of the filter(near the engine).
Do this work outside in the dirt and out of normal foot traffic. I did not notice if you have wheels. If you dont, harbor freight and other places sell a roller dolly that makes all the difference in the world. About 15-20 bux. Try to find a relatively flat spot. When re-filling, you definitely want a flat spot. I use a very large piece of cardboard for laying in the dirt and try not to get oil on it. LOL, I have had that cardboard for longer than I have had the trucks! You should also have some rags or even paper towels for cleaning up that pretty unit of yours! You should also have a flat pan under the generator to catch oil. They sell a round plastic pan specifically for catching the oil. It even has a spout. If you get interested in DIY,ing oil changes, get one. In a pinch one of those disposable aluminum pans that you use to cook turkey in works great, usually. Make sure if fits underneath.
Dont forget to drain the old oil! I did that once, did not notice until after I put all of the tools away, cleaned up and then saw the oil cans - yeah cans way back then. Now, I line up all of the plastic jugs on the front bumper.
When installing the new filter, dab some oil in the rubber gasket before screwing it on. Also clean off the surface area on the engine. I have run into some of the rubber from the filter burnt on the engine. I usually use the oil strap wrench to finish after I have screwed it on by hand. Just a small turn unless you have not tightened it enough by hand. That's up to you, I am not as strong as I was and have had some leak on me in the way past because it was not tightened enough. I am talking about a tiny turn where you can feel the resistance.
You can do it, man!!!
Yep. Hand tight only. One hand actually. Heat it up by starting, slap on some rubber dishwashing gloves and use 2 hands to crack it loose. Or, buy an oil filter wrench $5 - $8 dollars.