and you could do the job faster with a nail gun. I prefer screws, takes a bit more time and it'll run you more, but you won't have to worry about play in a few years time.
The old school of thought. Nails are much stronger when it comes to framing a structure. Screws are fine for interior walls and Sheetrock. Rent a pneumatic nailer for your project, you won't be sorry.
Screws are better for parts that might warp, like flooring, trim and the ramp. They are also better if you ever plan to take something apart again.
A combination of both would probably be ideal. Screws for the floor/trim and nails for the main structure.
Square bit screws drive better than Philips. It's easier to access the whole shed with a door on the side wall. Don't forget hinge depth when measuring the door opening.
The old school of thought. Nails are much stronger when it comes to framing a structure. Screws are fine for interior walls and Sheetrock. Rent a pneumatic nailer for your project, you won't be sorry.
My father was a contractor for decades and I worked with him many summer, spring, and winter breaks. We always used pneumatic nail guns and nails for any framing and screws on about 90% of the interior work (sheetrock, flooring, etc)
...outline required fasteners for various construction applications and lumber dimensions, but since you're building an uninhabited detached structure less that is 200 sq ft or less (I think that's the cut off) building code may not apply. But it doesn't hurt to use as a guideline.
That being said many municipalities require permits for shed construction/installation (yes even the pre fab ones that they drop on 4x4s laid in gravel) so you may want to hit up your BCO and municipal website for input. Also some variability depending on how you're going to frame (standard ridge/rafter roof vs trusses, etc).
I don't do any exterior or much framing work but I had always used and was taught to use nails (12 and 16p for framing; 8p for sheathing) due to greater shear strength. However as I understand the code is evolving for many applications (deck framing for example) and no longer permits you to just knock things together with nails and more and more requires reinforcing metal fasteners and hangers as nails are "subject to withdraw".
That being said many municipalities require permits for shed construction/installation (yes even the pre fab ones that they drop on 4x4s laid in gravel) so you may want to hit up your BCO and municipal website for input. Also some variability depending on how you're going to frame (standard ridge/rafter roof vs trusses, etc).
I don't need a building permit, but do need zoning and other related permits that exist solely to make the town money.
I'm ag2 so don't need permits for out buildings. I built a 60'x24" pole barn 20 years age. Made it through 3 hurricanes so far. The only nailed was the trusses to the beams and the rat board for them. Beams were built in place and bolted to the columns. Same with the stalls. Screws and bolts. When you want to change things around, a lot easier to take apart with screws.
A combination of both would probably be ideal. Screws for the floor/trim and nails for the main structure.
Square bit screws drive better than Philips. It's easier to access the whole shed with a door on the side wall. Don't forget hinge depth when measuring the door opening.
My father was a contractor for decades and I worked with him many summer, spring, and winter breaks. We always used pneumatic nail guns and nails for any framing and screws on about 90% of the interior work (sheetrock, flooring, etc)
That being said many municipalities require permits for shed construction/installation (yes even the pre fab ones that they drop on 4x4s laid in gravel) so you may want to hit up your BCO and municipal website for input. Also some variability depending on how you're going to frame (standard ridge/rafter roof vs trusses, etc).
I don't do any exterior or much framing work but I had always used and was taught to use nails (12 and 16p for framing; 8p for sheathing) due to greater shear strength. However as I understand the code is evolving for many applications (deck framing for example) and no longer permits you to just knock things together with nails and more and more requires reinforcing metal fasteners and hangers as nails are "subject to withdraw".
I don't need a building permit, but do need zoning and other related permits that exist solely to make the town money.