The wife and I are looking to get a new car, we work in the city and sometimes the parking is a pain in the ass. With that said we are looking at smaller cars or hatchbacks (ease of fitting in to tight parking spots).
The wife kind of likes the Volkswagen Golf GTI and I don't think it looks too bad. Does anyone have any advice on the negotiation side of buying a new car? This will be our first new car purchase (we have always drove beaters). We would be buying not leasing.
Any advice would be much appreciated
I came with a spreadsheet once I knew what car I wanted and which options.
When I say spreadsheet I had the prices, colors options etc on the vehicle and a price quote from each dealer ...
That allowed me to force the guy's hand ... vs I go to another dealer, so he tossed in extras and brought down the price even more. Also make them give you tire & wheel hazard for free. Potholes are a BI#$@ here in MI.
Good luck.
We don't live in NYC, we live on Long Island. We commute to NYC
Subaru Impreza is also a nice, although not the most powerful engine around.
I like the Golf GTI.
You should test drive, figure out what car you want.
Then shop for Internet pricing. You can usually get very deals that way.
Personally, I am not thrilled with the 2019 hatch update. I'd go with the sedan or the Cx 5.
The interior styling is spot on and the tech is really good. I do plan to add the android auto upgrade in a few months. current models have started coming with Apply car play and Android Auto. The latest infotainment graphic have gotten better and more responsive.
Ideally, I'd love to drive a further coming skyactive X engine. With that said, they current car is paid off and those fund are going else where.
Take a look a Mazda. They are a quality product and have dedicate people building and designing their vehicles
If you're not comfortable doing that shop at the end of the month when they're trying to hit their bonuses.
I bought my GTI used in 2015. I remember going to the local VW dealer and attempting to buy new. Trying to get an actual price from them was like pulling teeth so I walked out. I then went to a highly rated used dealer that specialized in VW/Audi. They had no hassle pricing like Carmax. The guy handed me sets of keys to 4 different cars and said to have fun test driving. Can't beat that!
Cheaper in the short term, more expensive in the long term.
2. Golf GTI: Like the car. Be wary of long-term cost of maintenance (also think it needs premium gas). German cars get finicky around 100k miles. If you’re used to driving cars into the ground - Japanese.
3. If you’re trading a car in, do it in 2 separate transactions. Negotiate the car purchase first then bring thr trade in. They’ll play games between the two if you do them at the same time.
They’re clearing out ALL inventory because the Focus has been discontinued.
My commute is about 68 miles round trip which comes out to around 16k or so just getting to and from work with my weeks off and whatnot. I was told the more miles you need the price goes up considerable (not sure how true that is).
I never considered Mazda, how is their reliability?
I work night shift, LIRR is not really an option unless I want to increase my commute by at least an hour each way.
Have your financing taken care of before you go in there. If you have a trade in, sell it first. They negotiate everyday all the time they are better and more experienced at it than you they will rob you on the trade-in as well.
Walk out at least once. Everytime you walk out the deal will get a little bit better. If you lose out on a car so be it they'll make more. Do research before you go in you can find out what a brand new car costs the dealer.
Got it for $5K below sticker prices after shopping around for a couple weeks.
Sometimes you just have to say WTF...
Worked for me.
My commute is about 68 miles round trip which comes out to around 16k or so just getting to and from work with my weeks off and whatnot. I was told the more miles you need the price goes up considerable (not sure how true that is).
I never considered Mazda, how is their reliability?
More miles definitely cost you more on a lease. Typically you’ll pay 25-30 cents a mile for miles over the typical 36K allowance on a 3 year lease. So for example if you turned the car in with 60K miles on it, you’d owe $6000 at turn in @ 25 cents a mile. You can save money by buying a bigger mileage allowance at inception - say about 15 cents a mile instead.
Mazdas are definitely reliable - much more so than Volkswagens. Also less expensive to fix when they do break. And it runs on regular gas vs the recommended premium for the GTI. But while the Mazda has a pretty zippy drive, the GTI beats it hands down in that department.
I came with a spreadsheet once I knew what car I wanted and which options.
When I say spreadsheet I had the prices, colors options etc on the vehicle and a price quote from each dealer ...
That allowed me to force the guy's hand ... vs I go to another dealer, so he tossed in extras and brought down the price even more. Also make them give you tire & wheel hazard for free. Potholes are a BI#$@ here in MI.
Good luck.
Good advice, agree with you on the potholes here in MI. Our roads here are crap.
Quote:
My commute is about 68 miles round trip which comes out to around 16k or so just getting to and from work with my weeks off and whatnot. I was told the more miles you need the price goes up considerable (not sure how true that is).
I never considered Mazda, how is their reliability?
More miles definitely cost you more on a lease. Typically you’ll pay 25-30 cents a mile for miles over the typical 36K allowance on a 3 year lease. So for example if you turned the car in with 60K miles on it, you’d owe $6000 at turn in @ 25 cents a mile. You can save money by buying a bigger mileage allowance at inception - say about 15 cents a mile instead.
Mazdas are definitely reliable - much more so than Volkswagens. Also less expensive to fix when they do break. And it runs on regular gas vs the recommended premium for the GTI. But while the Mazda has a pretty zippy drive, the GTI beats it hands down in that department.
You are probably better off buying vs leasing with your commute. The extra mileage you add to your lease lowers the residual value of the car, making it more expensive over the course of your lease term. Most car companies advertise a lease payment based on a 10k mile per year lease. The reality is most customers are opting for at least a 12.5k or 15k lease. Typically the residual value goes up at least 1-2 percent with every 2.5k increase in annual miles. That will significantly impact your payment.
Oh cool, did not know that. I think me and the wife are going to look at the new Mazda 3 and the Mazda 3 hatchback as well as the GTI. Go for a test drive and see what kind of deals I can get. Thank's all for the advice, I really appreciate it.