Anyone here has had their AC replaced? I'm shopping cause last summer, the home warranty\Ac repair company they used said there was a leak in the inner coil and it is leaking refrigerant. The unit is also 10 yrs old, probably builder grade, and it's a Goodman.
I've had 4 quotes so far and they are all between 9-16K for 3.5 or 4 TON 16 Seer units. The cheapest was Home Depot but their unit is called Day and Night (never heard of em).
Costco/Lowes guy didn't even email me a quote...played some games with calling the boss to get a better price if I sign on the spot, sheesh!
So has anyone here has gone through a Central AC replacement? Any recommendations as far as manufacturers/make, HVAC company to go with, any tips or suggestions for the quotes so they don't skip anything? I'm in AZ and there are quite a few mom and pop shops...but I'm not sure about going with them so I'm trying the nationals and regionals first. Thank you all for your help and info.
Let the best reputation companies know you like them and want to deal with them, but the price differences were so substantial it's hard to overcome - and ask for their best net net price. They may not lower their price much, but can include upgrades, service, warranties, etc.
Details of which unit, seer, tonnage, etc. The shady companies will sell, sell, sell - the reputable companies will all be on the same page and the brand tag on your unit may differ...
He recommended a Viessmann boiler and a Fujitsu AC (air handler and condenser).
I got them at cost so I won't share that, but have had zero issues.
I just replaced my 13 y/o Trane XL 19i with an American Standard Gold Series - 5 ton unit.
American Standard and Trane are owned by the same company. Both units quite efficient.
I talked to some friends on who they used and had 3 companies bid on the job.
Think you are better off getting a local HVAC with a very good reputation over Home Depot/Lowes.
18 months ago, my AC unit also had a leak in the coil. Meanwhile, my furnace was 14 years old and the hot water heater was 12 years old.
Side note, I also had shitty batt insulation in the attic that was poorly installed in 1968.
The state was offering a really nice rebate to make the house energy efficient. It is a program that many of the HVAC contractors can execute.
They need to do a door blow test first to determine how leaky your house is. They also take note of the make/model and efficiency of your current equipment.
Bottom line, for $12k I was able to get the following:
New direct vented furnace
New AC condenser
New direct vented hot water heater
Air sealed the entire attic
18 inches of blown insulation over the top of the existing batts.
It was the air sealing and the blown insulation that made the biggest difference by the way.
I went to the local mechanical contractors (HVAC) and requested them to spec out and size each and they all came in within 2 weeks.
I looked at Trane, York, Rheem, and American Standard (same as Trane).
I ended up buying the York because of the efficiency, rating and the price all coming in positively. The one thing to consider is the service company that you will have provide annual cleaning each year. I ended up using a contractor to install, but they could not service the unit in a timely manner due to staffing so I went with another compay to serve the units.
Overall it worked out, but look at the long term service side as well.
So don't concentrate on the name so much, but rather the service/installation/price being offered.
So don't concentrate on the name so much, but rather the service/installation/price being offered.
I found the best most honest guy around near me. He talked me out of Carrier, which I thought I wanted. He talked me into getting a Brapyant and saving a chunk of change he said they are as close to identical as can be, minus the paint color.
When he installed it, he started laughing and said “normally they ship it with both stickers, Carrier and Bryant. But the forgot the Bryant sticker… so congratulations, you got yourself a Carrier…”
I didn’t believe him till he showed me the air handler.
So don't concentrate on the name so much, but rather the service/installation/price being offered.
This is the correct answer. I’m a building science geek, my father worked in the trades (I worked with him for a bit) and my brother is an hvac engineer for a big design/build company.
Sizing (manual j and manual s calculations) and install (not matching the indoor and outdoor units and duct efficiency issues) are most important. Now is a good time to have an energy audit done to see if there is low hanging fruit like attic insulation and air sealing that could be done. That will lower the load requirements in the manual j and allow you to size the equipment smaller which would save you money now and the long run.
Like a football team it all works together and depends on one another to be most efficient.
Mini splits are great, especially if you don’t have ductwork already. They remove the need for ducts, which tends to be a big source of energy loss
I can tell you that it much more efficient and my bills are lower.
They used Carrier products which I think are 16 seer.
Happy with the product.
Might be worth giving them a call.
Quote:
...there are only like three companies that manufacture AC/heating units. Then they get a name slapped on them.
So don't concentrate on the name so much, but rather the service/installation/price being offered.
This is the correct answer. I’m a building science geek, my father worked in the trades (I worked with him for a bit) and my brother is an hvac engineer for a big design/build company.
Sizing (manual j and manual s calculations) and install (not matching the indoor and outdoor units and duct efficiency issues) are most important. Now is a good time to have an energy audit done to see if there is low hanging fruit like attic insulation and air sealing that could be done. That will lower the load requirements in the manual j and allow you to size the equipment smaller which would save you money now and the long run.
Like a football team it all works together and depends on one another to be most efficient.
You have to be careful not to cut it too close as a smaller unit will have to worker harder than a slightly larger unit. And yes, proper ducting is essential to have the proper flow. Each unit requires a certain amount of capacity in the ducting and registers. My 1st replacement unit required an additional 12 inch return air register to meet the CFM of the new air handler. The one I just put in(2nd replacement), the techs added 2 x 8 in returns and a 12 inch. The change was amazing as the rooms are all cooler than before the additions and more balanced. In addition, all three contractors said the manifold at the top of the air handler had to be taller to allow for the main outflow ducts to have equal pressure and flow.
The install includes both units (or however it is AZ). The compressor outside and the air handler in the attic which also does hot air in the winter.
Quote:
In comment 16025254 BillKo said:
Quote:
...there are only like three companies that manufacture AC/heating units. Then they get a name slapped on them.
So don't concentrate on the name so much, but rather the service/installation/price being offered.
This is the correct answer. I’m a building science geek, my father worked in the trades (I worked with him for a bit) and my brother is an hvac engineer for a big design/build company.
Sizing (manual j and manual s calculations) and install (not matching the indoor and outdoor units and duct efficiency issues) are most important. Now is a good time to have an energy audit done to see if there is low hanging fruit like attic insulation and air sealing that could be done. That will lower the load requirements in the manual j and allow you to size the equipment smaller which would save you money now and the long run.
Like a football team it all works together and depends on one another to be most efficient.
You have to be careful not to cut it too close as a smaller unit will have to worker harder than a slightly larger unit. And yes, proper ducting is essential to have the proper flow. Each unit requires a certain amount of capacity in the ducting and registers. My 1st replacement unit required an additional 12 inch return air register to meet the CFM of the new air handler. The one I just put in(2nd replacement), the techs added 2 x 8 in returns and a 12 inch. The change was amazing as the rooms are all cooler than before the additions and more balanced. In addition, all three contractors said the manifold at the top of the air handler had to be taller to allow for the main outflow ducts to have equal pressure and flow.
Agree, at the same time Oversized units will short cycle which will reduce its life and not run long enough to remove humidity if you live in a humid area. A unit too small will never shot off and you won’t be as comfortable. I wouldn’t go with a single stage compressor as you have the higher level for the bigger load days with at least a 2 stage. Variable speed compressors are really nice and as for comfort with the fewest temp swings I would go that way
Unit efficiency is a key component. 16 seer is a good rating. You might wish to discuss multi speed fans, as well. If your unit is to large for the home, it will not properly cool/heat the air prior to cycling off. To small and it will be running and struggling to keep up. A local distributor will be able to advise what their exeprience is for your local enivorment.
Do a little homework and yu do get what you pay for. Best of luck.
They did the same for R-22…that shit is/was more valuable than gold