to set the stage for you DIYers, I can fix anything if I have good directions. I need step by step directions and I need to have the right tools. if I do then nothing is off limits - plumbing, electric, light carpentry, anything.
When I don't get good directions or have the right tools and I need to improvise I'm a disaster. I have installed light fixtures, new sinks, replaced sinks, toilets, fixtures, etc. and also caused so much damage when things didn't go well the plumbers and electricians in town recognize my number when I call them.
So, now that you know what you're dealing with.
I have a small coat closet in our entry way. The lower hinge seems like the screws are stripped. I thought why not just get longer screws. That worked for a while, but eventually I guess the weight of the door won out and now I need to fix it the real way. but with the door hinge not exactly being adjustable I was not sure how to fix it the right way. Maybe some wood filler in the holes and then redrill the holes and screw in the hinge?
a picture in case it's not clear - the screws are loose - they don't tighten.
any advice?
+1
do you think that is a "permanent" solution?
If it works even temporarily it's better than what I have now, just curious.
Thank you for the replies.
from a syringe
This. I like JB Weld Kwikwood. Comes in a stick that’s the consistency of Playdoh. You cut a piece off, mix the two halves between your fingers and press into the hole. Fully cures in an hour and is then sandable and drillable.
Now you will have a new surface to grip your screw.
Toothpicks work too.
Actually if you have a good set of bits, you may want a bit slightly smaller than the wooden dowel you will drive into the hole so it is in there very tight - cannot rattle around. If you aren't forcing the dowel into the hole, it will not hold when you try re-attaching the hinge. Pencil mark the hinge screw holes and drill pilot holes for the screws.
Quote:
try packing the screw hole with tooth picks and attempt to refasten.
+1
I appreciate it.
As for me, I drill into the existing screw hole, wiggling the tip of the drill bit, so that the hole is tapered wider the deeper it is. Then use filler, and finally re-drill new non-tapered hole.
Remove those screws and they are short screws then replace them with longer wood screws.
Use a 1/4 inch drill bit and drill a new pilot hole through slightly longer than 1 inch.
Apply wood glue to the dowels and hammer them in lightly. Make sure you sink them to at least flush with the jam or slightly inside by a hair. Otherwise, the hinge will not be tight to the jam when you reinstall.
wipe off any remaining glue and wait one hour before proceeding.
The hinge pin should be removed from that hinge so you can hold it in place against the jam freely. Place the hinge on the jam and take a pencil to mark the dowel through the hinge in the center. Use a punch or something else pointy to start the spot where your drill bit will be placed.
Take a 1/16 or 1/8 bit and drill a pilot hole one inch deep for all three locations. replace the hinge plate and install the screws. You can use a screw gun but do not go all the way with it. You should hand tighten when you get close so the gun does not strip your hole.
If the hinge is loose on the door, then you will need to do the same thing there too.
I actually just did one like this today
Nothing so annoying was ever fixed so easily.
Nothing so annoying was ever fixed so easily.
That is temporary. If you are going to do it that way, jam a few of them in there with wood glue.
Read the OP. He already tried that and it failed.
Do this all the time at the bowling alley for repairing stripped screws in the approach
The problem with this method is although you feel the screw grab onto something, it is not stable. You have a widened hole going through the door jam so that hinge can still move.
I guess if i got really long screws the same width, like a foot long, it could work for longer, lol,
I went with the KwikWood epoxy, filled the screw holes (also discovered the middle hinge was stripped too or loose at least so filled those screws as well) and re-drilled the holes and attached the hinges and then the door.
Seems fixed. Could not have been any easier. I went with the epoxy over toothpicks because I felt like after reading up on the epoxy it wouldn't succumb to the weight of the door like toothpicks eventually might over time.
It seems like a really heavy door for an internal closet, but whatever, it opens and closes like new.
Thank you all for the advice.